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Cylinder Replacing a cylinder is not that difficult. It is
more time consuming than actual physical labor. Removing the engine
panels/plastic is a good idea for the extra room to work in. For most air cooled
engines it is a matter of removing the exhaust and then the fan cover and air
shroud surrounding the cylinder. Pay attention to any hose, cable or electrical
routing before removing. I can not stress enough to take notes as you
disassemble the components. With the above components removed you will see (4)
nuts holding Install the ring /rings on the piston and install one of the piston clips. Confirm that the wristpin bearing is in place. Position the piston [any window/s on the piston skirt should face up. If the top of the piston is marked EX make sure it faces the exhaust port] and slide the wrist pin through. Install the other piston clip. Make sure the open ends of the clips are facing straight up towards the very top of the piston. Visually check to make sure they are seated in the grooves and not bent out of round. If they are, replace them!! They will certainly come out if deformed.Install the base gasket and make sure it is positioned correctly on the lower engine case. Position the piston ring/s so the open ends are centered on the locating pin of the piston. If out of position the cylinder will not slide on. The cylinder should be lightly oiled with 2 stroke oil and while squeezing the ring/s with your thumb and middle finger gently slide the cylinder on with a rocking motion. If you have trouble, check the pistons ring position again!!! Never force the cylinder!!! With the cylinder now fully down install the head gasket and cylinder head. Torque the cylinder nuts down to the suggested setting (generally 1.4-1.7 kg). Install the fan shroud and cover in reverse order. Use NGK B8 range for cast iron cylinders Use B9 range for aluminum cylinders For the first tank use 50:1 premix
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